Kyoto Sumiyama Asakura Mokko is located here, and we would like to introduce you to the charm of the area called "Sumiyama".

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I created this so that people who come all the way to Asakura Mokkou can find out about places of interest in advance and drop by.

 

I would be happy if it would be useful for those who already live in Sumiyama.

The trigger was when I was preparing a warm cup of tea at the OPEN Showroom for the Autumn Pottery Festival.

In 1973, the Tokai Nature Trail was also completed. Even today, we often see people enjoying walking and cycling. (Nature trail connecting Tokyo's Meiji-no-Mori Takao Quasi-National Park and Osaka's Meiji-no-Mori Minoh Quasi-National Park)

I started collecting and exhibiting one or two pieces of pottery that I could get at the pottery festival.

 Kyoto Sumiyama Asakura Mokko will introduce the good points of Sumiyama that I felt after actually living there since 2009.

I would be happy if those who visited the coal mine could see even a little of the works of the artists who are producing at this coal mine.

 

The photo above shows the chestnut round table 1200Φ used from 2016.

First of all, we will introduce cafes that you can stop by without a reservation, and places that usually have open days.

Regular care　

・Wipe the table with a well-wrung cotton cloth after eating. Microfiber is not suitable.

Wipe in the same direction as the wood grain. (Even if the soil of the vegetables is wiped on the dishcloth,

If the scratch is in the same direction as the wood grain, it is hardly noticeable, and the scratch in the direction of crossing the wood grain is well visible. ）

・ TV boards, chests, chairs, etc. do not need to be cleaned with a dry cloth.

Sitting and touching on a daily basis will give you a friction finish, and the parts you often use will become shiny.

 

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Dents and scratches　

・Soak a small rolled cotton cloth with water and place it on the dent. When it dries, add moisture and let it sit for a few hours, and it will return considerably.

(Note: This method may stain if done on furniture with rough or colored furniture with a rough or colored finish count on the wood surface.) ）

If the dent does not heal easily with water alone after leaving it for a day, return a little more by "1, 2, 3 seconds" with an iron.

(Note: If you use an iron a lot, the surface may become uneven and the color may fade, so consider using it only on severely dented areas.) Steam ×)

 

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Permanent Marker Ink　

・ If it is immediately attached, it can be removed with disinfectant ethanol. (Available at pharmacies.) Makiron ×)

・ If it has passed for many days and it does not go away, apply a very small amount of lacquer thinning liquid to a cotton swab and remove it while blurring it in a direction similar to the grain of the wood. With this method, the color of the wood in this part will be lightened because the layer that has become a good color over time will be destroyed by chemicals, so please do it before oil maintenance. (Do not use urethane coating or other coatings with a coating film!) ）

 

 

 

 

 

 

Types of ring stains on wooden tables　　

In general, there are different types of "ring spots", and the causes and countermeasures are different.

Case (1) In the case of coating with a coating film, the coating film reacts with heat or chemicals and turns white.

(This doesn't happen with Asakura Woodwork's oil finish.) It can occur if the furniture you are using has a strong wax component even if it is called an oil finish, or if you use oil urethane, it is in the same state as if there is a coating film. ）

In the West, tablecloths were used as a culture, so if you are using antique furniture, be careful not to place hot items directly on the vessel with high thermal conductivity. Among antique furniture, it seems that there is a way to cure those with a shlac varnish finish instead of organic solvents at home. ）

Case (2) Ring stains that can occur with oil finish are a condition in which the oil absorbs only the oil when the oil component is low on the surface after many years of use, and the oil absorbs only there, making a difference from the others.

(This can be made less noticeable by reducing the difference by replenishing oil in other parts of the body with oil maintenance.) ）

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Case (3) When the oil that has penetrated the wood is used before it is completely cured, and the moisture reacts with the semi-dry oil in the wood, making a difference from the others.

(This may be the case when the Asakura woodworking is freshly done or when it has just been maintained.)

For a few days after applying the oil, please be careful not to put water directly on the coaster. ）

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Case (4) When an iron tool is placed directly, the tannin component in the wood and the iron content may react and turn black. (The same applies to the tip of a kitchen knife that rusts.)

You can make it thinner by adding lemon juice (commercially available fruit juice) as soon as it turns black.

 

 

 

Dining table only Oil maintenance (once every 1~2 years)　

The dining table used for meals is before and after meals (6 times in total× 365 days = 2190 times! Because of the wipe, the surface of the wood becomes slightly fuzzy.

By removing the excess fluff with water-resistant paper and soaking it with oil again, the surface becomes surprisingly stain-resistant after one or two maintenance.

In the showroom, you can try a wet cup directly on a table that has been used for years.

 

 

 

 

What to prepare.

- Water-resistant paper No. 800 (1800× 900mm A4 size 1~2 sheets on the table. (If the table is glossy, you can use 1000 (finer than 800))

● Oil (Osmo oil or ribos oil) 50 ml (← 1800 × 900 mm sufficient for maintenance of the table)

- Cloth 9 pieces cut into palm-sized pieces (breakdown: 1 for splashing, 1 for wiping powder, 1 for spreading oil, 4 for wiping, 2 for finishing wiping)

For those who use furniture and accessories of Kyoto Tanzan Asakura woodworking, a small maintenance oil for scratches and

We have prepared a set that allows you to perform "table maintenance" immediately. Please contact us.

Oil Remarks: For Osmo Color Official Online Store

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 (1) Remove dirt with a wet wipe. Wipe the surface of the top plate and the thickness of the board with water to remove dirt.

The paper process also removes dirt, so if you wipe the surface more carefully than usual, it will dry before proceeding to the next paper.

Rags are old cotton T-shirts, etc. (You can use a towel if you are careful not to get caught in the grain of the wood, but it is better to wipe it off cleanly if it is not a towel fabric.)

 

 

 

(2) Water resistant paper No. 800 is folded by hand, cut into 8 pieces, and folded into 3 equal parts. (If you cut it with scissors, the scissors will not be able to cut.) When cutting Mr./Ms., use a cutter. ）

Cover the paper along the grain of the wood. The purpose is twofold. To entangle dirt, and to remove the parts that have been fluffed up and lifted by daily wiping with a grain size of 800.

When doing it with children, it is better to stand on the side where the grain of the wood is in the direction when you move your hand straight. (Because the trajectory of the hand draws an arch)

Even if the paper is cut in a different direction from the grain of the wood, it is a fine count of 800, so you can blend in with the surroundings with a new 800.

You don't need to paper the thickness of the top plate. Apply oil (if there are any stains or scratches that you are concerned about).

 

 

 

(3) Wipe off the powder well with paper with a dry cloth. The goal is to be evenly clean when wiped off. If there is extreme unevenness, we will return to the paper.

The difference between the wood grain (bamboo shoot pattern) and the grain (straight striped pattern) makes the paper look uneven, but if you apply oil, you won't be bothered.

If you apply oil to a wooden conduit with this paper powder in it, it will become a lid and can be easily removed by daily wiping, so remove the powder thoroughly.

(4) Shake the bottle of oil well, then spread it out and inhale it generously. Apply it on the top of the baking sheet and on the thicker parts as well.

(5) Wipe off immediately without waiting for time. It soaks in well while wiping it off, and it dries out quickly in the middle of summer.

(Even if it dries and becomes difficult to wipe off, it's okay to add more oil and apply it to make it easier to wipe off.)

Wipe it off with a new side of the cloth. The wiping comfort is sticky and heavy at this stage. (Children should wear aprons or clothes that can get dirty,,,)

 

 

 

 

 (6) Switch to a finishing wiping cloth, and then wipe off more and more with a new side of the cloth.

When the wiping becomes lighter and lighter, and you wipe it until it feels smooth and no oil sticks to it, you're done!　Leave to dry for 12 hours.

(Please note that if you put your hand on it, the oil will slowly rise with your body temperature and you will get a handprint.) ）

Reference:

If you use rivos oil, the drying time of 12 hours is a little short. It is more permeable than Osmo oil, so if you dry it thoroughly, it will be very clean and easy to use.

If you put water on the surface when only the surface is dry and the oil is not completely cured in the back, the semi-dry oil and moisture may mix in the wood and look like a ring stain.

In the case of rebossing, if you dry the oil thoroughly by using a coaster for about a week, it will be resistant to stains. 

  

 

 

Bonus Maintenance

With a rag spread with oil, rub the oil into areas that you feel need a little more gloss, such as the tip of the arm of the chair (the photo is an au chair) or the part of the TV board that is often exposed to the sun, and wipe it off immediately.

The places that are often touched by the hands are finished with hand friction, so it is enough to replenish the oil without paper.

* If the rag is soaked in oil, spread it out and dry it thoroughly before discarding.

If you leave it crunchy with oil on it, it may spontaneously combust.

After drying, wash your oily hands with soap.

(When the cloth that has been spread with oil dries, it becomes crisp, but when the rag used for wiping is dry, it can be used for cleaning.) ）

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Bonus Maintenance

With a rag spread with oil, rub the oil into areas that you feel need a little more gloss, such as the tip of the arm of the chair (the photo is an au chair) or the part of the TV board that is often exposed to the sun, and wipe it off immediately.

The places that are often touched by the hands are finished with hand friction, so it is enough to replenish the oil without paper.

* If the rag is soaked in oil, spread it out and dry it thoroughly before discarding.

If you leave it crunchy with oil on it, it may spontaneously combust.

After drying, wash your oily hands with soap.

(When the cloth that has been spread with oil dries, it becomes crisp, but when the rag used for wiping is dry, it can be used for cleaning.) ）

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It is sufficient to maintain the table once every 1~2 years.

The frequency will also be the first year maintenance, the second year maintenance, and from the third year, it will be a surface that does not bother you even if it is not every year.

There are Mr./Ms.many articles that say that "oil-finish furniture is prone to stains", but to be precise,

"If the surface of oil-finished furniture is rough from the beginning, it is easy to stain."

If the surface is finely finished and oil maintenance is performed at the appropriate stage, the surface will be surprisingly stain-resistant.

The only difference between planer finishing and paper finishing is that the goal is to make the roughness of the wood smooth in the case of finishing.

When you use a whetstone to remove a planer, and look at the tip with a microscope,

Rough jagged→ finely jagged→ almost no jagged, and then cut the wood quickly.

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In the case of a paper finish, abrasive particles are attached to the paper and rubbed against the wood.

It is a method of making it smooth by gradually rubbing it with paper with small abrasive particles.

The planked top plate has a fine-grained flat surface, so maintenance is surprisingly easy.

In the case of a paper-finished baking sheet, the soft part of the wood tends to be dented first.

It is rather difficult to fine-tune the count uniformly. It also takes a lot of work.

Therefore, if you want to mass-produce wooden products at a low cost, oil finish is not the choice.

It takes too much time and effort to get the oil finish to feel good.

It is common to use wooden products that are painted on a slightly rough wooden surface to make them shiny and pleasant to the touch.

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When the paint peels off, it is a slightly rough surface, so there is a lot of fluff, and it is easy for dirt and mold to enter.

It's not a matter of wood, it's a matter of finishing and painting choices, which are confused in the current situation.

There are types of coatings that have a coating layer that can be layered on top of the paint film when you want to maintain it (lacquer, etc. is layered), and those that are not (those that need to be peeled off and repainted).

At the stage of product development, such as accepting repainting, it is recommended to choose a wooden one that is expected to be used for a long time.

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